YES WE HAVE MOVED.

 

While I might sit here and wax poetic about the urban energy that flows through our new neighborhood and how Wicker Park/Bucktown is like the heart that beats cool-as-hepcat life blood through the veins of this city I decided to skip all that and…wait a minute “Google” says we are still on Armitage?  Then never mind.  We never moved.  My mistake.  I like Lincoln Park too.

KIDDING.  Despite what Google would have you believe for the past few days, we have indeed moved our shop over to Wicker Park. Seriously, we are open for business in Wicker Park and we couldn’t be happier about it.  With all the good food, drink and entertainment in the new neighborhood it’s easy to overlook the best part of our new digs.  The bikes.  The bikes are everywhere.  Every conceivable style of bike with every conceivable style of rider.  It’s amazing.  And of course we are happy to tune-up, fix, adjust and help with all of them.

Our address is now 2010 W Pierce Ave, Chicago IL 60622.  Sorry for all the confusion.  If you have questions on where we are, how to get here or if you want to know why the theme song to the Might Morphin’ Power Rangers is a magnificent piece of music (please ask for Chris and reference “Power Rock” if you are calling about that), just give us a call at 773-697-7618.

Just thought everyone might like to know what happens when Dutch Bike Chicago heads over to Dutch Bike Seattle. Watch until the end to see who forms the head.  Who is that guy?

Welcome back, class!  Now that you've adjusted your Shimano Nexus hubs, we'll dive into the next most interesting operation on one of these bikes: rear wheel removal.  Mastering this will allow you to replace tires or tubes that are worn out or damaged beyond patching.  This will get a little more technical than the previous post, so it's very important to make sure you're comfortable using tools and that you have the time and energy to safely put everything back together.  Please read through the entire post before tearing apart your bike, and be sure you're comfortable performing all the operations described (especially tensioning the chain!).  Troubleshooting and adjusting your hub didn't require any tools, but this will, so get out that toolkit and polish up your:

1. 15mm open-end wrench or 15mm deep socket w/ driver
2. 10mm open-end wrench and 10mm socket w/ driver (you can substitute another 10mm wrench or a small adjustable if necessary)
3. Cable cutters (diagonal cutters or wire cutters can be substituted)
4. 2mm hex key/Allen wrench
5. Dental pick, sharpened spoke, sturdy ballpoint pen, small switchblade, or something else with a nice point to it
6. Tire levers (if you plan on replacing tubes or tires)

Now that your tools are prepared, set your bike on its center stand (or clamp the seatpost in a work stand if you're lucky enough to have one).

We will remove the rear wheel first because it's a more complex operation and many of the steps will be duplicated in removing the front.  As an overview, we're going to disconnect the brake, open the chain case, disconnect the shifter, disengage the chain tensioners, and remove the wheel.  Then we will reinstall the wheel, engage the tensioners, tension the chain and center the wheel, reconnect the shifter and brake, and close the chain case.

To disconnect the brake, first loosen the cable fixing nut several turns.  Pull or clip off the cable tip, and pull the cable out of the brake.

Now once we've removed the torque arm clamp bolt the brake will be completely disconnected.

After that, move back to the right side of the bike and open the chain case, starting by unhooking the tension wire running along the bottom of the case.

Once the wire is unhooked about 3/4 of the way down toward the front, unsnap and unclip the rear section as we did in the previous post.

Now loosen the axle nuts about three turns (Don't worry, the chain tensioners will hold the wheel in place) and yank the rear section of the chain case frame straight back and out of the bike.

Shift the bike into first gear, and poke the long end of the 2mm hex key into the tiny hole in the back of the cassette joint.

Pull downward on the wrench to give yourself some cable slack, and then use your pointy tool to pop the cable and cable stop out of the cassette joint.

Pull the cable housing out of the housing stop, being careful not to kink the cable.

Now that you've disconnected the brake and shifter cables from the hub, all that's left is removing the wheel itself!  Loosen the chain tensioners until the nuts are even with the end of the threaded section, and loosen the axle nuts until the colored non-turn washers (yellow on the right, brown on the left) can completely clear the frame.

Lift the chain carefully off the teeth of the cog and set it down on the plastic of the cassette joint.

Now you'll actually remove the wheel: pull it straight backward until both chain tensioners are loose enough that you can flip them downward so that they hang from the axle.

The wheel will now be free to slide forward and out of the dropouts, and you're free to replace tubes, change tires or just marvel at your accomplishment.

To reinstall the wheel, you will essentially be reversing most of the steps you've just completed.  Set the chain on the cassette joint -- next to the cog but not on it -- and then slide the wheel back into the dropouts.  This may take some wiggling, and possibly even some fiddling to make sure that the chain tensioners are inside the dropouts, and the non-turn washers (brown and yellow) are outside.  Gently pull the wheel as far back into the dropouts as possible, giving yourself enough slack to flip the tensioners back into place.  Now that the wheel is held in place by the tensioners, you'll be able to reattach the shifter and brake cables, the chain, and the chain case.

Set the chain back on the cog and carefully turn the cranks a few revolutions to make sure that the chain is fully set on the chainwheel (front gear) as well.  To reconnect the shifter cable to the cassette joint, first slide the cable housing end into the housing stop.

Now repeat the trick with the 2mm hex key to wind the cassette joint back to a point where you can slot the cable stop into its cradle, making sure that the cable sits cleanly along its channel.   Shift up and down the range a few times to make sure that everything is working smoothly, and also use this opportunity to check the adjustment of your hub (just like you learned to do in the last post!).

Pass the brake cable through the housing stop and into the cable stop, tightening it down at at its original setting.  Make sure the housing is fully inserted in the stop.  At this point you can crimp a cable end cap onto the cable, then test brake function by pulling hard on the brake lever. 

Slide the rear section of the chain case frame into place, carefully pushing both top and bottom ends into place in the main chain case frame.  Be sure that the chain tensioner is outside the chain case frame on the axle.

Now that everything on the axle is in place, you can tension the chain.  This step is going to be the most technical that you'll perform during the operation, so shake the kinks out of your hands and get ready!  Tighten down the axle nuts until the tabs of the non-turn washers are fully inserted into the dropouts, but not so tight that you can't shift the wheel.  Throughout this step, you'll be keeping the wheel centered in the frame by watching the distance between the (ideally fully inflated) tire and the chain stays.  Tighten the chain tensioner nuts evenly as you bring the wheel back toward its original position.  On Workcycles bikes (especially if you are using the original cog size), you'll frequently be able to find this spot by the indentations left by the non-turn washers in the frame powdercoat.

Ideal chain tension can be an art and a science, but the easiest gauge will be this: at the tightest spot in the rotation of the cranks (because there will be tight spots and loose spots) you should still be able to move the chain slightly (<1/4") up and down with your fingers.  You should NOT hear a crackling sound as you spin the pedals through the tight spots, and the chain should not be so loose as to hit the bottom of the chain case.

Once you've got the chain at a nice tension, double-check the centering of the wheel and then reattach the rear brake's torque-arm clamp on the chain stay.

Now you can tighten down the axle nuts!  Make sure these are solidly tight, really get your arm behind the wrench (unless you're some sort of giant burly guy, in which case you'll want to exercise some restraint).

Now that the wheel is reinstalled and the chain case frame is reassembled, most of what's left should be familiar from the last post: closing the chain case.  Gently (because these are fabric parts, after all...) slide the rear section of the cover over the frame, keeping the chain tensioner outside.  Pull the edges of the inside slit (between the wheel and the chain case) together and slide the prongs of the clip into their pockets inside the chain case.  Snap the snap on the outside, and hook the wire back and forth across the hooks on the underside (don't miss any!).

...And you're done.  Go for a ride!

As you may have guessed, we love some internally geared hubs here at Dutch Bike Co.  We love the smooth shifting, the quiet operation, and the simplicity of use.  From the shop perspective, I enjoy knowing that our bikes are out there being ridden and loved - not worked on.
 
More than any other drivetrain, an 8 speed hub really doesn't require its user to be a "bike person."  An avid cyclist will certainly enjoy it -- as many of you have discovered for yourselves -- but anyone who can push the pedals will benefit equally from the utter simplicity and rock-like durability of this transmission.  Combine the system with a chaincase and in a year of riding you'll probably do no maintenance whatsoever.  You won't even have to wonder whether or not to feel guilty about it.

This brings us to the educational kernel nestled within this husk of a post: adjusting your Shimano Nexus hub.  At this point, you might reasonably grow apprehensive that I'll try to explain planetary gear systems, expose you to exploded views, or start talking about gear inches.  I won't.  Adjusting your hub is a simple and easy procedure that will likely take less than five minutes and won't get your hands very greasy at all.

Step One: Diagnosis
When I teach a repair class, this is typically the subject that receives the strongest emphasis.  Without understanding what's causing the problem, we can't fix it.  Bearing this firmly in mind, we'll quickly check the three main parts of the system: the shifter, the cable, and the cassette joint (I'll explain in a moment).  The cable will come first, because it's the simplest part of the system and -- relatively speaking -- the most vulnerable.  Around three out of four "mis-shifting" or "gear slipping" issues on our bikes have the same simple cause:



Here, the cable housing (the outer sheath) has been tugged out of the shifter, exposing the cable.  It has then caught on the edge of its proper place (the barrel adjuster) and failed to snap back in.  This 1/4" difference leaves the system totally out of whack.  The solution is even simpler than the problem: just nudge the end of the housing back into the barrel adjuster, and the tension already on the cable will do the rest, snapping it back into place.



If all is well so far, check over as much of the shifter cable housing as you can see for damage or kinks that could cause it to drag or bind.

Next, we'll move on to the cassette joint.  This is the little plastic unit on the side of the hub where the cable attaches, and that translates your pull on the cable into the actual gear change in the hub.  If you have a cloth chaincase (any Workcycle, Azor, or Jorg&Olif except Secret Service, Fr8, and Bakfiets) you'll need to open the back end just a little to see the cassette joint.  Unsnap the outside snap, then slide the clip out of the pockets on the inside.



Gently peel the rear section of the chaincase up and forward, and tuck it out of the way.



Now you'll be able to see the gray and black plastic cassette joint, and the little adjustment window with a yellow indicator line.  With a plastic chaincase you'll just be able to flex it inward slightly, and the view will be the same.



Now that you've ruled out problems with the cable, shift into fourth gear (you'll see a dot next to the number to tell you it's special) and check the yellow marks in the small window on the top of the cassette joint: if they line up, you're adjusted properly.  If they don't, then turn the adjuster on the shifter (with a couple of experimental turns to make sure of your direction) until they do.



...And you're done!  You've just done exactly what a good mechanic would have when confronted with Nexus hub "issues," and almost assuredly resolved them.  Take the bike for a quick test ride, and enjoy your perfect shifting.

We get asked this question in the shop and over the phone quite often.  Shoppers examine all the extra features and ask, "what's that for... why's this special... how does this work... ?" Before I present my litany of features, I'd like to make clear that "Dutch Bike" in many contexts is really a generic term being used to describe a style of bike, typically a two-wheeled, utilitarian bicycle, with fenders, a rack, relaxed frame geometry, an upright seating position and generally an "old-timey" look harking back to the turn of the 20th century.  It is a style of bike you find all over northern Europe, from Amsterdam, to Hamburg, to Copenhagen, to Trondheim.  They can be manufactured in Holland, many are not.  As reported in the Seattle Times today: nine in 10 bikes bought by Americans are made in China. Europeans also suffer from a high consumption of Chinese goods.  Our Azor bikes are built in Holland from frames made in Belgium, Holland and China (this is particular to the Oma, which is in such high demand, Dutch production cannot keep up).  Regardless the frame origin our warrantee (10 years frame / 1 year parts) reamains the same for all our Azor bikes. So what does a Dutch bike get you?  Here's a list of features, standard to our line of Azor Dutch bikes:

• fenders, mud flap, skirt guards — keeps your suit, skirt or kilt clean on the way to work in all weather conditions
• sealed chain case — keeps you clean and keeps chain clean, reduces long-term maintenance
• sealed 8-speed rear hub — provides effortless shifting, reduces long-term maintenance
• sealed "roller" drum style brakes — eliminates brakes and attendant dust on rim, consistent stopping in dry or wet conditions, long lasting performance
• dynamo front hub — generates electricity for...
• halogen headlamp — continuous beam, bright for all night time antics and safety
• LED tail lamp — stores electricity from dyno-hub to stay lit at stops (no flashing, no batteries required - ever)
• bell — gets pedestrians out of the way (mostly only works in Europe) and makes cute-happy-friendly sound (this works in USA) before you run into unaware pedestrians
• heavy-duty rear rack — carry cargo and friends (colloquially known as "girlfriend rack")
• center stand — allows stable loading and independent parking
• steering return/centering spring — centers front wheel so bike stays upright when parked with a loaded front basket
• integrated lock — legally required (in Holland) and convenient for cafe hopping or errands (not for overnight use)
• integrated bungee straps — convenient for securing anything unruly to the rack
• relaxed frame geometry — makes for a smoother ride
• big 1.75" wide x 28" Schwalbe Marathon tires — smooths ride and highly puncture resistant
• long stem and swept-back handlebars — allows you to sit completely upright with a straight spine and little or no pressure on your hands
• stainless steel fasteners, stem and handlebars — makes your bike highly rust resistant
• powder-coated frame —  a thick baked-on finish, highly rust and scratch resistant and more environmentally friendly than paint

Though any of these features when weighed alone are not that special, when integrated into a complete bike they make for a very special and functional machine, high on comfort, safety and utility, as well as good looks.  Many other Dutch and Dutch-styled bikes may come with all or some of the above.  The list is a fine starting point for comparison. We also need to make it clear that adding all these features also adds weight to the bike.  So, if you imagine you want to race, carry them around or load your bike onto a rooftop carrier, you have the wrong bike.  These bikes are appliances, not sporting goods.  In general they will be 5-10 lbs heavier than similarly kitted sport bikes.

Now we get a lot of inquiries about the differences between the Azor (Dutch - made in Holland) and Velorbis (Danish - frames made in Germany, bike finished in Denmark) bikes. Let's start with the most common question — weight. How much do they weigh? Well, the Velorbis bikes are heavy and the Azor bikes heavier. If you need to know the exact weight, then I may suggest you are shopping for sportier bikes than we sell, or you are lifting your bike way too much, or you may have a latent Lycra addiction. Regardless of weight, they both roll quite nicely and with the eight speed you can get most anywhere in any city. On our bikes you will never be the fastest person on the road, though many times you may be the most stylish, relaxed and comfortable rider on the road. If you count your wealth as free time, you can afford the extra five minutes your comfy bike takes to get you and your groceries (how much do they weigh?) home. The substance (weight) of the bike is a major component of the ride comfort. Michael "Drunk and in Charge" in Brooklyn was sorting out the differences between the Velorbis Churchill baloon and the Azor Opa. I thought I'd share my response: "There are some distinct functional differences between the Velorbis and the Azor Opa, as well as some huge subjective differences in the way they ride and handle. They are two very different bikes that have a similar look. The Velorbis has 26" tires, a chrome moly frame and steep[er] frame angles, which translates into faster acceleration, quicker steering and overall a "springier" ride. The Velorbis rear rack is a light duty rack on which you will not be able to carry your friends (for very long) or (Alex's proverbial) 50 lb bag of dog food. Everything about the Velorbis is lighter and sportier (you are leaned forward a bit) and feels more like the performance of most of the bikes we are used to buying in the USA. The Azor Opa and all the Azor bikes are equipped with 28" tires, a high tensile steel (less springy than chrome moly) frame and relaxed frame angles. They are slow to accelerate, ride like a Cadillac (you are sitting absolutely upright) are extremely stable and can easily haul a boyfriend or girlfriend or dog food and beer on the burly welded steel rack. I love both bikes, because they are so different. One feels [more] like a sports car the other like a luxury car. The Velorbis (with balloon tires) inspires me to want to race people on skinny tired bikes and careen down stairwells. The Opa (or Transport) inspires me to want to cruise and slow my life down (why are all these people on other bikes bent over and in such a hurry?). The Scrap and the Churchill are exactly the same frames (geometry and components) save for cosmetics and tire options. The Azor Secret Service (because it is a bit lighter and sportier) bridges the gap between the Velorbis and other more burly Azor models. You are choosing between apples and oranges."